Interviewed by Andy Block

Why cook?



It’s been my experience that, as far as professional cooking is concerned, cooking chooses you. I began my career at age 16 cooking and serving hot dogs at a local sailing club. Of course I didn’t know I had started my career way back then. I never would have imagined the places I’d go, the people I’d meet, the enriching life experiences that I’ve had, all as a result of working with food for a living.


What are your influences?


I’ve been influenced by every chef I’ve worked with coming up in the industry. Early in my career I learned a lot of things NOT to do. I cite David Sellars, Chef/Owner of Amavi in Santa Fe, NM as a strong influence on my cooking style. He had been a friend and peer of mine when I went to work for him as a line cook part-time at Santacafe in Santa Fe, NM. (I was working as a fish butcher during the day.) His passion, focus, restraint, elegant simplicity and self-assured yet personable management style influenced me greatly. I’d also like to mention Chef Dominic Geraghty who hired me as his executive sous chef at Hotel Santa Fe. The man was 20 years my senior but could cook circles around me. His skill, dedication, finesse and attention to detail were astounding. One minute he’d be preparing a terrine of goose liver pate with elk and dried cherries. I’d blink and he’d be rocking out dozens of perfect miniature raspberry tarts. Later he’d be changing the oil in the deep fryer. I’ve yet to meet his equal when it comes to a strong work ethic.


Favorite cuisine?


American


What do you think of American’s eating habits?


Well, it would be great if our eating habits were better, more healthy, sustainable and less destructive to ourselves and the planet. It would be nice if our view of dining and food were more along the lines of the Mediterranean diet. But I love a fast food cheeseburger as much as anyone else in the country!


What are your feelings about east vs. west cooking/ eating styles/ philosophies?


I love all types of cuisine and I appreciate what Japan, China, India, Vietnam, Thailand, etc. offer to the gastronomic world. That being said I cook American food. I sometimes get a little irritated by the trend of fusion. My own view is that food should be indicative of “place.” There is a lot to be learned from different cuisines but I rarely cook in the Eastern styles. There is so much of America, both in style and technique, to celebrate in my opinion.


How did cooking in the southwest influence you?


It’s difficult to step back and see how much it has influenced me because it’s become such a part of me as a chef and as a person. The flavors and techniques, the utilization and celebration of native American ingredients such as tomatoes, chiles, corn, bison, watermelons, summer squashes, all of these things have shaped my style and enriched my human experience. The food of the southwest is bold, simple but deceptively complex. It’s fascinating to me. To be in New Mexico during the chile harvest is an experience I wish for everyone who loves food. The aroma of fresh green chiles roasting and mingling with the scent of pinon smoke beneath electric blue skies and distant mountain ranges...it’s just magical.


How can the culinary world become more environmentally sustainable?


It is changing fairly rapidly. I’ve witnessed and been a part of a huge awakening among chefs and diners during my twenty year career. The starting point in my opinion was Alice Waters’ restaurant, Chez Panisse opening in Berkley in the 1970’s. She has had a huge impact on American chefs for decades. I’ve traced my own lineage back to her. Randall Warder hired me to be his sous chef at Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe. Previously he had been the chef at Red Mesa in Washington, D.C. Red Mesa was owned by Mark Miller, widely viewed as the grandfather of southwestern cuisine. Mark Miller came up working for Alice Waters at Chez Panisse.


The farm to table movement is gaining momentum. It’s incredibly trendy right now and my hope is that the trend will stick and become a lasting expression of American cooking. Small, family-owned and operated farms create superior products and less harm on our environment. They are not as profitable as the big agribusiness companies so their prices are often higher. It’s a question of pay now or pay later really. My hope is that diners will continue to want to see sustainable and environmentally sound products on their menus and to be willing to pay for it.


What do you do now? Where do you work? Explain your business.


I work for myself as a personal chef for hire. I have an office and professional kitchen at Let’s Cook Culinary Studio in Columbia, SC. The Studio is owned and operated by Chef John Millitello, a wonderful chef and an amazing person. It is set up as a loose co-operative of four chefs. We each have our own business and share the kitchen space. I do dinner parties in private homes, cooking classes (both in the home and studio), special event catering such as weddings, birthday parties, graduations, family and class reunions as well as business lunches.


How is the internet and digital media changing the food culture and business?


There is so much information out there now. It is incredible. Television has had the greatest impact though in my opinion. The Food Network has changed the industry immeasurably for the better. There has been an explosion of interest in food, cooking, cuisine, chefs and restaurants in the past 15 years. Diners (and professional chefs) may have their own opinions about Emeril Lagasse, Martha Stewart, Rachel Ray, Bobby Flay, Paula Deen, etc. but personally I’d like to thank them all! They’ve helped to open up the world of professional cooking to the public. People are hip to technical terms and techniques, products and styles as a result of watching these shows. Diners are more informed and as a result are more adventurous, demanding and discerning. It’s great for the industry and for chefs.


What are some of your favorite cooking styles, chefs, traditions, books, theories of food?


It’s probably clear by now that I sing the praises of American food. I cite James Beard as a strong influence. My very favorite cookbook isn’t really a cookbook at all but more a compendium of ingredients that classically work with each other. The book is called Culinary Artistry and written by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. They spoke to my class at New England Culinary Institute and signed my copy. I highly recommend this book to cooks who want to go beyond following recipes and enter into the world of creating their own dishes. The Food Lover’s Companion is also a great source book, it is a dictionary of culinary and gastronomic terms.


Do you want to own a restaurant and if so what would it be?


I do want to own a restaurant. My plan is to return to my native state of West Virginia and open a small, roadside cafe, a local eating and meeting place. I want the cafe to be small and intimate. The menu will celebrate local and regional ingredients and techniques, the food of the American southeast with a focus on Appalachia.


How has living in the south affected your style and what do you think of the southern culinary tradition?



I love southern food. I love soul food. The one area where I part with southern culinary tradition is in the cooking of vegetables. Green beans should be tender but not mush! But when it comes to frying vegetables we southerners have our technique down pat, fried green tomatoes, fried okra, etc. And I love me some Paula Deen. Oh lawdy! I’d like her to give me one of her big ol’ kisses!